Wednesday 7th November 2018 - The AMAZING Alhambra.

We had breakfast a bit earlier today to get a good start on our visit to the Alhambra. As recommended by Kathy, we decided to take a taxi to get us up to the ticket booth and entrance to the Alhambra. I had booked tickets earlier which covered the whole complex and also access to the Palacio Nazares which is on a timed basis so that the palaces do not get too crowded. The number of tickets to enter the entire complex is capped each day to allow admiration of the Alhambra without there being crushing crowds. Our entrance to the Palcio Nazares was at 11.30 a.m.

After exchanging the vouchers we had for actual tickets we were soon in the complex. The first area to visit is the Generalife Gardens. These gardens are outside the confines of the Alhambra and were built for the enjoyment of the Sultan and also for agriculture. The gardens are formal with ornamental hedges, flower and rose beds and raised terraces with fountains and water features. There is also a theater in the middle but I am not clear if this was originally there or has been added recently to allow performances in the gardens. The gardens provide wonderful views both in the near and the distance. At this time of year, the flowers and roses were not at their best but it was not hard to imagine how they would look at their height which would also, of course, coincide with the hotter weather of summer. The gardens are a delightful part of the visit to the Alhambra.

After walking through, we walked into the Alhambra, itself and down past the impressive building which houses the Museo de la Alhambra and Museo de Bellas Artes. As it was approaching our time of entry into the Palacio Nazares, (also known as the Nasrid Palaces), we waited in line the few minutes before our appointed time and at 11..30 a.m. we were let in to the palaces. There are three:

1. Palacio del Mexuar of Ismael l and Muhammad V
2. Palacio de Comares of Yusuf l
3. Palacio de los Leones of Muhammad V

It is not really possible to describe these places. They are simply amazing. There is incredible carving work on the walls and ceilings, wonderful reflections in the water pools and eye-popping vies from all the windows and terraces. I will devote a separate post just to photos of the Alhambra and especially the Nasrid Palaces. It took quite some time to walk through and really enjoy these wonderful spaces and when we had completed our trip we followed the route past the beautiful El Partal with its reflecting pool  and the adjacent gardens, (Jardines de San Francisco), towards the exit of the Alhambra. There we had a short break and a cup of coffee before heading back towards the Alcazabar or the military area of the Alhambra. This was where the soldiers lived and formed the defensive part of the complex. The huge thick walls making it an impressive fortress. After passing through the impressive gateway, there are remains of the rooms, etc which housed the soldiers but the piece de resistance is the Torre de la Vela which rises majestically above the fort and the Alhambra as a whole. After quite a climb up the stirs inside, you come out onto the roof where the whole city and the Alhambra are spreads out before you. This was a sort of climax to the whole day. On the roof there is a bell and on New Year's day it is said that anyone can ring the bell and if a lady does, she will find a husband. Well, that is the legend!!

This was an extremely memorable visit in perfect weather. Although there were quite a few tour groups, (many Asian) visiting, the place never seemed to be unduly crowed allowing quiet enjoyments and contemplation of this wonderful, magical place. It was interesting to learn that a number of well-known people had either lived in the Alhambra or it had inspired them to write about it. This included American author Washington Irving, and composers Claude Debussy and Isaac Albeniz, Franciso Tarrega also wrote a piece of music called 'Memories of the Alhambra'. The place has obviously left a lasting impression on all who visited it. 

We left the complex via the Puerto de la Justicia and the Puerto de las Granadas and walked down the steep streets back to the city center where we stopped in the Plaza Nueva to have a drink and review the day. After a small diversion into the local grocery store to get Spanish cat food for our cosmopolitan cats at home, we returned to the hotel.

After a short rest we set off up the hill again to a restaurant called El Trillo where we had a reservation. This was an excellent place and well worth the climb. Very nice atmosphere, excellent service and a lovely menu with a great selection of food and wine. After an aperitif of Cava, the local sparkling wine, we dined very well on wild boar risotto, pigs cheeks, octopus, salad and ham washed down with a good local wine.

After dinner we returned to the hotel and as we walked down the streets, each turning gave us a view of the Alhambra illuminated by night. It looked like a a fantasy palace up on the hill with the ocher walls illuminated. What a place!!!

Then it was back to the hotel and bed after a really splendid day in every respect.